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When assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble place earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary achievement.